Handloom Program Under Vocal for Local Program

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Handloom Program: National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) has been formulated for its implementation during 2017-18 to 2019-20. The scheme will follow a need-based approach for the integrated and holistic development of handlooms and the welfare of handloom weavers.
Nearly 15% of cloth production in India is from the handloom sector. Cloth production in 2019-20 (till January 2020) stood at 63,348 square meters. Production of hand-woven fabric from India constitutes 95% of global production.

TANGALIA SHAWL (Gujarat)

Tangaliya is a hand-woven textile product that is dotted (often black) and derives its name from Tangalio, meaning the lower body. Traditionally, Tangaliya was a cloth that wrapped around the waist. However, due to loom size constraints, the cloth was woven in size and then cut in two parts and join together to form a shawl.

PATOLA SAREE (Gujarat)

Gujarat is well-known for its single and double Ikat sarees. The word Patola is derived from the Sanskrit word Patta’ referring to silk cloth. Rajkot’s practice started around the 1950s when one of the weavers working with Salvis moved from Patan to Rajkot to run a patola weaving training centre ‘Rashtriya Shala’ sponsored by Khadi and Village Industries Commission.

 KANI PASHMINA SHAWL (Jammu & Kashmir)

The weaving of Kani Pashmina Shawls IS an age-old traditional heritage of Srinagar Kashmir. The most valuable shawls are composed of threads of delicate Pashmina wool taken from the wild Tibetan & Ladakh mountain goats’ underbelly. Made of very soft & lightweight fabric, a single Kani Shawl is weaved by using around 30 colours.

 BALUCHARI SAREE (West Bengal)

Baluchari textiles are famous for their elaborate ‘anchal’ with decorative motifs generally use in the narrative style in the palloo portion, e.g., the lady with flowers, a vignette from Ramayan, etc. It has often been eulogizing as the loveliest and most charming of all silks of India’.

JAMDANI SAREE (West Bengal)

It is believed that the word Jamdani is derived from the Persian word Jam meaning cloth and ‘Dana’ meaning but Jamdani is a weaving technique of figure cotton textiles in the transparent plain ground, with the other weft designs. Weavers directly weave design motifs from their memory without the help of any design device.

 Dharmavaram Sarees (Telangana)

Evidence of the origin of Dharmavaram sarees can be found on the roof wall paintings of Lepakshi temple near Hindupur. This saree has a rich luster due to the extensive use of gold zari. Dharmavaram Saree has richly woven motifs of flora and fauna. Its designs are inspired by the temple murals & paintings of the famed Lepakshi temple.

POCHAMPALLY IKAT (Telangana)

Ikat weaving technique, which requires true precision and skill, is believed to be brought in from Chirala, where it is locally called as chit-Ku. Characterized by their bold, geometrical motifs, in red, black, and white, they were earlier used in as lungis or turbans. In the ’60s, Weavers of Pochampalli start weaving sarees initially on cotton & then silk was introduced.

Bomkai saree (Odisha)

The Bomkai saree originated from a small picturesque village named Bomkai in Odisha. Traditionally. Bomkai saree is distinguish using thick pile cotton, with contrast colour border and pallu (muhajorha). The stylized floral and geometrical patterns on the borders usually have small dots within, which is not seen in other textiles.

KOTPAD SAREE (Odisha)

The magic touch of tribal weavers of Kotpad village of Koraput District has Occupied a prominent place on the Indian Handloom industry map. Aul trees surrounding the village are nature’s gift for the tribal weavers of this area. These trees play a vital role in manufacturing naturally Aul dyed fabric. Kotpad saree is known for a solid border temple design locally called Phoda Kumbha.

Karvat (Maharashtra)

Karvat in Marathi means ‘saw,’ and since the designs look like sawtooth’, the fabric is known as Karvati or Karvatkati. The uniqueness of the Tasar Karvati Saree is its temple border in different sizes. The border is woven with mercerized cotton yarn & the body with pure Tasar hand reeled yarn.

CHANDERI SAREE (Madhya Pradesh)

They are specializing in producing fine-textured Chanderi sarees of silk & cotton embellished with zari work. Chanderi is home to a wide range of traditions Chanderi silk cotton sarees display various beautifully striking motifs intricately woven by hand & interspersed with the delicacy of extra weft motifs. Chanderi sarees were trendy amongst the royalty.

Mekhela-Chadar (Assam)

Mekhela is traditional Assamese dress wear by Women. Two main pieces of cloth are draped around the body. The bottom portion draped from the waist downwards is called the Mekhela. The Mekhela is made of Muga silk, the queen of textile fibre, famous for its extreme durability & natural yellowish golden tint with a shimmering glossy texture.

MUGA SILK SAREE (Assam)

Muga silk recognizes as a protected geographical indication (GI) in the logo for trademark purposes in 2014. The Muga silk, due to its low porosity, is challenging to be bleach or dye and hence retains its natural golden tint. The durability of Muga Silk Saree is beyond a lifetime. As the fabric ages, its golden luster increases & absorbs harmful ultraviolet rays in sunlight.

MANGALCIRI SAREE (Andhra Pradesh)

Mangalagirí saree is a beautiful count saree generally construct with the 80s combed cotton yarn for both warp weft with extra warp design on the border, popularly known as Nizan Border. The speciality of the extra warp design is a combination of twill rib and diamond weaves.

UPPADA JAMDANI (Andhra Pradesh)

Uppada Jamdani Saree is a mulberry silk saree manufacture in the Uppada of East Godavari district in Andhra Pradesh. It registered as one of the geographical indications from Andhra Pradesh by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
Uppada Jamdani sarees are known for their lightweight.

KANCHEEPURAM SAREE (Tamil Nadu)

The traditional wedding dress of the bride, Kancheepuram silk saree, is manufactured in the traditional designs inspired by the sculptures of temples in the town. The traditional Kancheepuram saree is woven in a throw shuttle pit loom by using the Adai technique. It is known to be the heaviest among all other silk sarees.

KOTA DORIA SAREE (Rajasthan)

Kota Doria must experience a long journey from being used as a turban to sare and now has many uses such as dress material stolen, curtain & other items. Some weavers were brought from Mysore to Kota by Maha Raja Kishore Singh, a great art patron. Introduced silk yarn in Doria weaving in Kota and surrounding areas about 250 years ago.

BANARASI CUTWORK (Uttar Pradesh)

By the early 19th Century, Banaras had emerged as the most important center for patterned silk weaving. Banarasi cutwork fabric is produced by clipping the extra floating threads that are not engaging in design formation & lying loose in the fabric’s backside. It attempts to imitate the look of the highly labour-intensive Karhuwa’ technique & produce low-cost fabrics in larger quantities.

 KULLU SHAWL (Himachal Pradesh)

Kullu Shawl is the speciality of the Kullu Valley in Himachal Pradesh. The design is inspired by the engraving on the walls of temples and Buddhist monasteries. The material used for weaving is pure wool in warp and weft. This technique is first developed on graph paper and then woven on an ordinary fly shuttle frame loom.

TANCHOI SAREE (Himachal Pradesh)

Tanchoi Silk was said to have been brought to India through Chinese traders in the 19th century, which was later adapted by Indian weavers. Very intricate, multi-colour designs are interwoven in a satin weave with a very high-density warp. The speciality of this saree lies in its smooth texture. Small weaving patterns are commonly used with flowers, little birds, peacocks & parrot as motifs.

BALARAMAPURAM SAREE (Kerala)

One of the significant items manufactured in Balaramapuram is Set Mundu (also known as Pudava & Kavani or Mumdum Neriyathum). These traditional products are woven with kora white cotton yarn. Set Mundu, the brides’ traditional wedding dress in the southern part of the state, has now taken a new form as Balaramapuram saree.

ILKAL SAREE (Karnataka)

The Ilkal saree is either made of a mixture of cotton and silk or in pure silk. The colours traditionally used are pomegranate red, brilliant peacock green, and parrot green.
The sarees made for bridal wear are fashioned of a particular colour called Girikumukum, which is associated with the Sindhoor used by the wives of the priests in this region.

 KOSA (TUSSAR) SILK SAREE (Chhattisgarh)

Bilaspur, Champa, and Raigarh districts of Chhattisgarh are known for Tussar silk weaving, which has been practised in this area for more than 100 years. Tussar is a variety of wild silk, popularly known as Vanya Silk. Traditionally this variety of silk is hand reeled yarn produced by the women members of the weaver’s family.

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By phantom